7.04.2020

COVID Dishes: Ortolan is a *very* uncommon dish AND Best old YouTube Channels to Eat them



    The Last Meal


  • Ortolan is a *very* uncommon dish, so you're not going to find an "Ortolan Expert" like you might if you were looking for soufflé. That means that the chef preparing it will likely be doing it for the first time (or at best, the first time in a while). Your best bet is to make it yourself. The steps I'd recommend are researching Ortolan, hiring a chef, and working through the thorny issues.

    Researching Ortolan
    Really know the dish and what you want to have made. Ortolan is not for the faint of heart and there's a lot of misinformation going around. The Holy Trinity connection is a fabrication. The bird's eyes are not poked out, a napkin is used just to hold the aroma in, and the stages of eating the bird (while sensorily accurate) do not have ecclesiastical overtones. This 2006 account titled The Urban Hunt published in Seattle's The Stranger tells the tale of the Ortolan and its connection to the Holy Trinity:
    You catch the ortolan with a net spread up in the forest canopy. Take it alive. Take it home. Poke out its eyes and put it in a small cage. Force-feed it oats and millet and figs until it has swollen to four times its normal size. Drown it in brandy. Roast it whole, in an oven at high heat, for six to eight minutes. Bring it to the table. Place a cloth—a napkin will do—over your head to hide your cruelty from the sight of God. Put the whole bird into your mouth, with only the beak protruding from your lips. Bite. Put the beak on your plate and begin chewing, gently. You will taste three things: First, the sweetness of the flesh and fat. This is God. Then, the bitterness of the guts will begin to overwhelm you. This is the suffering of Jesus. Finally, as your teeth break the small, delicate bones and they begin to lacerate your gums, you will taste the salt of your own blood, mingling with the richness of the fat and the bitterness of the organs. This is the Holy Spirit, the mystery of the Trinity—three united as one. It is cruel. And beautiful.

    Pretty cool, right? Just one problem: while the facts of how to prepare the bird are roughly correct, the mythology behind it all was the invention of a single French restaurateur. The original author of the piece cleared up the mistaken account and marveled at how it had become 'fact' through its inclusion in Wikipedia. The whole retraction is worth a read, but here's the bare bones:
    For the record: I am in no way an expert on the ortolan. That description does not belong in an encyclopedia. It's my paraphrase of a monologue delivered by a weird guy on a tipsy night a decade ago—many details of which (our dessert, for example) I don't remember.

    Hire a chef
    With knowledge in hand, you'll need to find a private chef in New York. These listings are a great place to start:  Call up a few personal chefs, explain what it is you're looking for (a dinner party for you and your friends, serving this very unusual dish). If you think you're up to force-feeding, drowning, and roasting on your own, you can skip this step. Here's a short video, which includes a description of how to cook them (very simple: pluck (or don't -- the feathers will burn off), salt & pepper the birds, and roast for 8 minutes). 
    Deal with the thorny issues
    You'll have to do some legwork to put this meal together.
    • Legal: Ortolan are native to France, Switzerland, and Germany, but their numbers are dropping. They are listed as a "protected species" in the EU, and it is illegal to catch them in France (though apparently not illegal to catch them in Germany). It is illegal to sell them throughout the European Union. To be perfectly legal, you'd need to go to a country that allows you to catch them, get the appropriate hunting license in the right season and then prepare the bird on your own. It appears to be legal to eat Ortolan bunting in the US (although there may be import restrictions on them, given that they are a protected species in the EU). Perhaps more information will appear here: Is it legal to import Ortolan buntings to the US?
    • Sourcing: Given the legal difficulties and distant location of Ortolan buntings, you may want to consider having your private chef (from above) help you find the birds. He may be able to help you find a black or grey market source for the birds. Another option would be to substitute an American bird for the Ortolan bunting. A small sparrow could work. The Cornell Lab of Ornithology[2]:  would be a good place to start. Perhaps more information will appear here: What American birds would be a good substitute for Ortolan Buntings?
    • Moral: The bird has been overhunted in the EU and is down to about 1 million birds.  Seeking it out for food isn't exactly like participating in the last Passenger Pigeon hunt, but it's something to grapple with for at least a moment. Perhaps this will help you consider the choice: Is it immoral to eat an endangered species?

    Happy eating!

    [1] Anthony Bourdain notes that eye-gouging may have happened historically, but today it is not as common. Instead, birds are force-fed by keeping their cages artificially light or dark.

    [2] This is almost certainly not the intended purpose of the Cornell Lab of Ornithology's online bird catalog.

    [3] Bonus footnote, apropos of nothing. This 1998 article about former French President François Mitterrand's last meal (which included Ortolan) is beautiful: http://www.esquire.com/features/The-Last-Meal-0598
     



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